Zara Kesterton
PhD candidate in History, University of Cambridge
Fashion – Nature – Enlightenment
I am a third-year PhD candidate, supervised by Professor Ulinka Rublack and funded by the Wolfson Foundation. My thesis explores the development of the artificial flower industry in eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century France.
My research investigates how consumers and producers engaged with ideas about the natural world, especially new advances in botany, through their clothing. I consider how fashion both reflected and stimulated knowledge exchange in Enlightenment France. I am also interested in the ways in which natural motifs in clothing interacted with the sensory body. I plan to undertake reconstructions of real and artificial flowers in clothing to understand more about the visual, olfactory, and tactile nature of floral accessories worn on the body.
I hold an MLitt degree in Dress and Textile Histories from the University of Glasgow (2022), an MPhil degree in Early Modern History from the University of Cambridge (2020), and a BA (Hons) in English Literature and History from the University of Durham (2019).
Here in Cambridge, I am currently co-convenor of the Long Eighteenth Century postgraduate workshop. I have formerly convened the Material Culture postgraduate workshop, and also served as the administrative co-ordinator for the HSS funded project, the Material Culture Forum. Alongside Susannah Lyon-Whaley (Auckland) and Tori Champion (St Andrew's), I run the international Women and Flowers Research Network.
I am committed to teaching and public engagement. I currently supervise and lecture final-year undergraduates on Paper 14: Material Culture in the Early Modern World. I held the position of editor-in-chief for the blog Doing History in Public in 2022–23. I have also taught English as a foreign language in France, and have worked as a tour guide at Hever Castle and Durham Castle. During the pandemic I worked as an archival research assistant for several academics based in Australia and New Zealand, including Dr Sarah Bendall.
Publications
'Artificial flowers in the credit records of an eighteenth-century fashion merchant', in The Historical Journal (September 2024)
'Artful Nature' at the Lewis Walpole Library, in The Journal of Textile History (May 2022)
Conference presentations
Crafting Fashion in the Longue Durée
Université Sorbonne-Nouvelle, Paris
28– 30 November 2024
'From ephemerality to eternity: Artificial flowers and time in the longue durée of craftsmanship'
BSECS Postgraduate Conference
Uppsala University, Sweden
22– 23 August 2024
'Fashion in Bloom: Exploring botanical knowledge exchange through artificial flowers in 18th century France'
36e congrès du CIHA – Matter, Materiality
Lyon, France
23– 28 June 2024
'An illusion of sight and smell’ : Artificial flowers and deception in 18th century France'
Learning from Making
Making Historical Dress Network, De Montfort University, Leicester
18 March 2024
'Petals to pixels: Using digital collage to insert flowers into the picture of 18th fashion'
The Agency of Style
Summer School, University of Leiden, The Netherlands
20– 23 September 2023
'The Blossoming of a Style: flowers and fashion in 18th century France'
The Power of Flowers
University of Ghent, Belgium,
14–16 June 2023
'Flower Girls: Pastoralism, fashioning, and gender politics in 18th century France'
Intermédiaires? Les femmes dans les sphères artistiques
Centre André Chastel, Paris,
8 June 2023
'Fashion merchant Marie-Jeanne Bertin: an exceptional intermediary?'
Women and Gardens
Wrest Park, UK,
28 March 2023
'Blooming Marvels: floral fashion, gardens, and femininity in 18th century France'
Materials of Early Modern Fashion
Online, October 2021
'Florals for Spring?' The use of three-dimensional flowers in 18th century fashion
New Research in Dress History
Online, June 2021
Marie-Jeanne Bertin and Parisian fashion merchants, 1770–1813
Sartorial Society Series
Online, October 2020
Photoshopping Ephemera: Reconstructing late-eighteenth century dress through digital image manipulation
Cambridge Gender and Sexuality History Graduate Workshop
Cambridge, February 2020
Clothes Make the Woman: Femininity and fashion in the profession of marchandes de modes, Paris, 1760–1810
Image credits: website header
Louis Carrogis de Carmontelle, 'Portrait d'une inconnue', n.d. Watercolour and gouache, Musée Condé, Chantilly.
Madeleine Françoise Basseporte and her circle, 'Centaurea cyanus', c.1750. Watercolour over pencil on vellum, The Morgan Library, New York, 1952.29:68.
François Boucher, 'Madame du Pompadour', 1756. Alte Pinakothek, Munich, HUW 18.
Presentations
Learning from Making: author's own collage using images from the Galerie des Modes (BnF).
The Agency of Style: Alexander Roslin, ‘Comtesse de Bavière-Grosberg’, 1780. Oil on canvas. Private collection.
The Power of Flowers: Carmontelle, 'Madame de Longueuil et madame de la Houze', n.d. Watercolour and gouache, Musée Condé, Chantilly.
Les Femmes Intérmediaires: Pierre-Thomas Leclerc et Nicolas Dupin, Galerie des modes et costumes françaises, 1778. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 44.1301.
Women and Gardens: Matthew Darly, 'The Flower Garden', 1777. Etching and engraving with watercolour, The Metropolitan Museum, New York, 41.25.4.
Materials of Early Modern Fashion: Denis Diderot, ‘Fleuriste Artificiel’, in Recueil de planches, sur les sciences, les arts libéraux, et les arts méchanqiues: avec leur explication, 1762–72, engraved plates. Book 3, vol. 4. The Metropolitan Museum, New York.
New Research in Dress History: Jean-François Janinet after a painting by Louis-Roland Trinquesse, Marie-Jeanne 'Rose' Bertin, colour engraving, c. 1784. Private collection, http://catalogue.gazette-drouot.com.
Sartorial Society Series: author's own collage using images from the Galerie des Modes (BnF) and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto.
Cambridge Gender and Sexuality History Workshop: François Boucher, 'La Marchande de Modes', 1746. Oil on canvas, National Museum of Sweden, Stockholm, NM 772.